Kayaking here provided a daily opportunity for absolute disorientation in an idyllic and wild setting, both challenging and beautiful. We visited both the inhabited and uninhabited, exploring the health of the reefs and the lives of the people who live and depend on these most-remote atolls. From Shark City in the giant lagoon of Rangiroa, to Toau (population 10), to Fakarava where we camped for days on spits of sand. Along the way we dove for pearls, spearfished and cracked open coconuts for milk and meat. We also discovered that a way of life, both culturally and environmentally, is at great risk here in paradise.